Indochino suit construction - canvassed, half-canvassed or fused?

Friday, May 7, 2010

Indochino Suit Construction Fused Canvassed
Indochino Suit Constuction

Important update: Indochino now features proper half-canvas construction, read more here

There has been quite some discussion on whether Indochino suits are fully canvassed, fused, or even a mix of both. First of all, let's shed some light on the terms and see why this topic matters.

According to an article on Art Of Manliness, the quality of a suit is not necessarily determined by its price, it is the construction of the suit that really makes the difference. The term canvassed basically describes a layer of canvas (e.g. wool, horse or camel hair) between the wool (or whatever the suit is made of) on the outside and the lining on the inside.

The canvas is cut to your body shape and the wool is stitched (by hand or machine, thanks JeffreyD for clarifying) to the canvas. As you wear the jacket, the canvas conforms to your body's shape, creating an excellent fit.

Fused jackets on the other hand are constructed in a cheaper way. Instead of a high quality canvas, a fusible interlining is glued to the suit. This fulfills the same job, it keeps the jacket's shape, but it can also look rather unnatural and appear stiff. I remember buying an H&M suit years ago that felt like it's made of thick paper, I guess that was fused... Fusing technology has improved significantly in the past years, but there might still be problems if you bring your suit do the dry cleaners regularly. The glue might dissolve and “bubbles” form on the suit – an effect that cannot be repaired and actually makes the suit unwearable.

There is also a third possibility, namely half-canvassed suits. These have canvas around the chest and lapel of the suit, but use fusing for the rest of the suit. Having the canvas on top means you most likely won't have problems with bubbles and the suit is still rather cheap to produce for the manufacturer.

Indochino states to have fused & stitched interlining, according to the terminology established above, this would correspond (mostly) to half-canvassed suits. In 2010, a bespoke tailor by the username of JeffreyD on StyleForum (Blog: made by hand - the great sartorial debate) voiced some criticism concerning certain construction details (no canvas in the lapels).

Indochino has since improved and  the method used now is a unique method, similar to a half-canvas construction, but using both fusing and canvassing.

In 2012, Indochino's construction was updated again, the graphics now reveal more details on the process. Since 2013, Indochino officially labels their suits as half-canvassed, a close examination is scheduled to be published on this blog later in 2013. Go here to read more about Indochino suits and learn about the quality and craftsmanship.

- by Lorenz Loidl

9 comments:

Anon said...

The image on the right that links to this page is broken.

Indochino Reviewer said...

thanks anon, should be fixed now!

Zeseindia said...

Lining
and Interlining Manufacturers
ZESE is focused towards Perfection, Quality and building up a bond between the garment manufacturers and the end users, in the one world of Textiles.
http://www.zeseindia.com/

guest said...

fyi that link at the end of the article no longer exists...thanks...

Lorenz said...

Thanks, I edited the article accordingly. 

Zeseindia12 said...

Lining and Interlining Manufacturers - India
ZESE is focused towards Perfection, Quality and building up a bond between the garment manufacturers and the end users, in the one world of Textiles.

Zeseindia said...

ZESE is focused towards Perfection, Quality and building up a bond between the garment manufacturers and the end users, in the one world of Textiles.
http://www.zeseindia.com/
Lining and Interlining Manufacturers

JackieB said...

I still think you need to clarify. What are you referring to in the tweet response to "lining"? What is the "interfacing"? If I follow correctly, Indochino uses 4 layers: lining, interlining, interfacing and then outer layer (e.g. wool). It sure is confusing when the twitter response introduces new terms in the explanation.

Lorenz said...

Thanks for the comment, will clarify as much as possible today.

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